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POINT OF INTEREST

Tamu Kianggeh

Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei

Colorful stalls at Tamu Kianggeh overflow with giant garlic, piles of chilli peppers, and fish fresh from the boat. Soaking up the atmosphere amid visitors stocking up on fresh food is a big part of the draw, but you can also find souvenirs like hand-woven totes and other crafts at this market. Or, come hungry: On-site vendors sell hot prepared foods including Brunei specialities.

The basics

Tamu Kianggeh is a permanent market in central Bandar Seri Begawan, where you can sample Brunei treats like kuih kapit (crispy crepes) and kuih cincin (deep-fried colorful pastries). It’s a great place to try out a few words of Malay or pick up artisan handicrafts directly from locals. If you’d like to learn more about the specialities and produce for sale, consider visiting with a guide who can point out details you might otherwise overlook.

Things to know before you go

  • Carry some Brunei dollars as most vendors don’t accept credit cards.
  • Bring a reusable bag if you’re doing some shopping, as Brunei is working to cut plastic use across the country.
  • Many market stalls stock fresh produce grown at Brunei farms.

How to get there

The market is located off Kianggeh Road, where it meets Jalan Kampong Kian. Tours generally provide transit or grab one of the metered taxis that cruise downtown streets. It’s also within walking distance of some of Bandar Seri Begawan’s top sites, including Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, which is around 12 minutes on foot.

When to get there

While the market is open daily from around 8am until early evening, it’s worth timing your visit to see the stalls at their best. Produce, fish, and other products are generally most abundant first thing in the morning, while some vendors pack up their stalls by noon. Friday markets are typically the most vibrant.

These are the must-try Brunei local foods

This tiny country is packed with more than its fair share of delicacies—starting with the national dish, ambuyat, which combines starch sago palm with sweet-and-spicy dips. A basic, try-anywhere meal is nasi katok, rice with fried chicken and chilli sauce. Sweet treats abound, too, including wajid (sweet sticky rice in coconut leaves), kueh pancut (pandan-flavored glutinous rice cakes in coconut), and kuih kusoi (sago sap sweets).

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