Golden House of Nero (Domus Aurea)

The basics

The Golden House of Nero—designed primarily for the ruler’s leisure and entertainment and named for its facade decorated in marble and gold leaf—covered much of the area around the Palatine, Oppian, and Esquiline hills in the heart of ancient Rome. The palace originally had more than 300 rooms exquisitely decorated with precious ivory, mosaics, frescoes, gem-studded ceilings, and grand fountains. Among the most important architectural aspects were two dining rooms flanking an octagonal hall, the dome ceiling of which could be rotated to look like the sky. There were also sweeping gardens with an artificial lake and a colossal statue of the emperor. Today only around 20 percent of the original complex is still standing, including 30 rooms that reopened to the public in 2014.

You can view the palace’s 2,000-year-old art and architecture only as part of a hard-hat Domus Aurea tour with an archaeologist guide. Booking ahead is imperative, especially in the summer. Tours of the Golden House include a virtual reality experience: Don augmented reality 3D glasses to see what the palace would have looked like in its heyday. Many Rome city tours combine a visit to Nero’s house with the nearby Colosseum and Roman Forum (Foro Romano).

Things to know before you go

• The Golden House of Nero, an active archaeological site, is a must-see for ancient history buffs.

• The multimedia tour makes use of Oculus Rift VR glasses, which are not recommended for children under 13, or for those with epilepsy or serious eye conditions.

• There is some walking involved to visit the site, so wear comfortable shoes.

• The Golden House is not accessible to wheelchairs or strollers.

How to get there

The Domus Aurea is located in the center of Rome on the Palatine Hill (Palatino). Get there on foot in minutes if you’re coming from nearby sights like the Colosseum, Roman Forum, or Circus Maximus (Circo Massimo). To use public transportation, take the metro line B to Colosseo, the closest stop.

When to get there

The Golden House of Nero is open for tours on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays only, so be sure to book in advance, especially in the summer months. While sightseeing in Rome is most pleasant in the fall and spring, the underground ruins provide a respite from harsh sunny days in peak summer.

The rediscovery of Nero’s Palace

After Nero’s suicide, subsequent emperors Vespasian, Titus, and Trajan buried Nero’s domus to build their own palaces above. The last of these buildings were Trajan’s Baths, under which the complex was rediscovered in the 15th century. Before the site was excavated and opened to the public, Renaissance artists including Pinturicchio and Raphael would lower themselves down inside the buried villa on ropes to study its ancient Roman architecture and intricate wall paintings.

Ways to explore

View the palace’s 2,000-year-old interiors—which once included more than 300 rooms decorated with ivory, marble, mosaics, and frescoes—on a hard-hat Domus Aurea tour with an archaeologist guide or on your own. Booking ahead is a must, especially in the summer. Tours of the Golden House cover excavated rooms and include a virtual reality experience with glasses that reproduce how the palace would have looked in its heyday. Many Rome city tours combine a visit to Nero’s house with the nearby Colosseum and Roman Forum.

Accessibility

The Domus Aurea is partially accessible to wheelchairs; disabled visitors enter for free.

Age limits

Though there is no minimum age, the VR experience uses Oculus Rift VR glasses, which are not recommended for children under 13.

What to pack

Camera, light jacket or sweater in summer

What to wear

Comfortable shoes, layers (the underground site is 50° F (10°C) all year long)

Not allowed

Large bags and backpacks, large umbrellas, glass bottles

Amenities

Restrooms, souvenir shop

Address

The Domus Aurea is located in the Colle Oppio park in the center of Rome, on the slopes of the Palatine Hill. You can walk to the entrance on Via Labicana in minutes from nearby sights like the Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Circus Maximus.

Driving

Driving in Rome is tricky, especially in the congested area around the city’s most famous ancient ruins, where parking is limited. Walk to the Domus Aurea from nearby landmarks, or visit as part of an ancient Rome tour that includes hotel pickup.

Public transportation

From the main Termini train station, take the metro line B to Colosseo, the closest stop. Alternatively, take tram 3 or bus 51, 85, or 87 from locations across the city to the Colosseo stop, a short walk away.

Best times to visit

The Golden House of Nero is open for tours on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays only, so be sure to book in advance, especially in the summer. While sightseeing in Rome is most pleasant in the fall and spring, the underground ruins provide a cool respite on hot summer days.

Best days to visit

Saturdays and Sundays see the biggest crowds, so book a tour on a Friday to have a quieter visit. The site is closed on the first Sunday of the month.

Best months to visit

Though the summer months are the busiest, this site offers relief from the midday temperatures from June through September.

Special events

The Domus Aurea occasionally holds art and archaeology exhibitions inside the ruins, and admission is included in the ticket price. Check the official website for upcoming events.