DESTINATION

Ensenada, Baja California

The first real roots were put down by ranchers, who began settling the area in the early 19th century. Ensenada temporarily boomed in 1870 with the discovery of gold at nearby Real del Castillo. The town became a supply depot for miners and was designated the capital of the Baja California Territory in 1882. By the early 20th century, however, the mines had given out, the capital was relocated to Mexicali and Ensenada lapsed back into obscurity.

After U.S. Prohibition went into effect in the late 1920s, Ensenada—along with Tijuana—became a favored drinking and gambling destination for Hollywood stars and other well-heeled types. Real revitalization came with agricultural reform and development in the Mexicali Valley. A nearby port was needed to handle the export of farm produce to the United States and mainland Mexico, and Ensenada's harbor facilities made it an obvious choice for development.

The completion of paved highway Mex. 1 from Tijuana opened the city up to American vacationers and sport-fishing enthusiasts. Ensenada is a little far for a day trip; a weekend getaway allows you to dine, stroll, shop, do some fishing, visit a winery or attend one of the city's many annual events.

Practicalities

Ensenada is about 109 kilometers (68 miles) south of Tijuana. The city's small airport, south of town off Mex. 1, accommodates only private planes. A tourist permit is not required for stays of less than 72 hours or if you do not travel any farther south than the town of Maneadero, south of Ensenada.

Four-lane toll highway Mex. 1-D is a quick, convenient route south from Tijuana. From the border, follow the prominent “Ensenada Toll Road” (Ensenada Cuota) signs along westbound Calle Internacional, which parallels the border fence to the junction with Mex. 1-D. Make sure you choose the proper exit lane, or you could be routed back to downtown Tijuana. The first of three toll plazas between the two cities is at Playas de Tijuana. The second is on the southern edge of Rosarito Beach; the third is at the village of San Miguel, about 13 kilometers (8 miles) north of Ensenada. The toll at each plaza is around 35 pesos. The final stretch from San Miguel to Ensenada is via four-lane, non-toll Mex. 1.

Alternative free Mex. 1 (look for signs that say Libre) parallels Mex. 1-D most of the way, although it turns inland south of the village of La Misión, about 44 kilometers (27 miles) north of Ensenada. The travel time is longer, and the road has some rough spots. Avoid night driving along this and other two-lane secondary roads in northern Baja, as both cattle and pedestrians frequently cross them.

The main bus station is in the northern part of town on Avenida Riveroll, between calles 10 and 11. Bus service is inexpensive; local routes are designated by street name, usually painted on the windshield. The Autotransportes de Baja California bus line provides regular service to cities up and down the peninsula.

Taxis, many of them minivans, congregate near the hotels along Avenida López Mateos. Although their ubiquitous solicitations can be annoying, drivers are normally courteous and knowledgeable. Make sure, however, that the fare is decided before you set off. Taxis can be hired for trips to such outlying destinations as La Bufadora and the Guadalupe Valley wineries. Round-trip rates run $40-$50 (U.S.), depending on the number of passengers.

In the event of emergency, dial 911 (English may not be spoken). For tourist assistance that isn't of an emergency nature or help with legal problems, dial 078; you should then be connected to the nearest State Tourism Office during normal office hours. A calling card is not needed to dial either of these three-digit numbers from a public phone. For medical emergencies, Clinica Hospital Cardiomed is located downtown at Av. Obregón #1018. Phone (646) 178-0351 (English spoken).

One of Ensenada's best features is its mild climate, similar to coastal Southern California and with fewer extremes of heat than almost any other Baja city. Winter evenings can be chilly, but the temperature seldom drops below 40 F. Summers are warm and dry, with occasional hot spells caused by Santa Ana winds blowing in from the desert. Almost all of the annual precipitation falls between December and March. Fierce Pacific storms sometimes bring torrential winter rains, and early summer can be quite foggy.

Personal safety is a matter of common sense. Tourists are invariably welcomed, as their dollars sustain many local businesses. If traveling by car, the best advice is to drive safely and defensively; traffic accidents are one of the biggest sources of vacation headaches in Mexico. One way to minimize risk is to stop at every intersection, even those that don't have stop signs.

City Layout

The preferred route into downtown Ensenada (signed “Centro”) branches off Mex. 1 about 2.5 miles north of the city and follows the coastline. It becomes Boulevard Lázaro Cárdenas (more commonly known as Boulevard Costero), one of two main thoroughfares traversing the waterfront tourist zone. Boulevard Costero runs along the harbor. A block inland is Avenida López Mateos, also called Paseo Calle Primera. Both of these streets are lined with hotels, local restaurants, bars, shops, nightspots and other businesses catering to visitors.

Heading south, Boulevard Costero ends at Calle Agustín Sangines (also called Calle Delante), which proceeds east to Mex. 1. Mex. 1, the Transpeninsular Highway, then continues south to Maneadero and on down the peninsula.

The malecón is a bayside walkway running for half a mile between Boulevard Azueta and Avenida Castillo. Here are the sport-fishing piers, a towering flagpole and huge Mexican flag, Plaza Cívica and the cruise ship terminal. It's one of the best places to go in town for a breezy stroll, and there are benches for relaxing.

Away from the waterfront, Ensenada is easy to negotiate. The terrain is flat, and the layout is a basic grid. Avenues (avenidas) are named and run north-south; streets (calles) are numbered and run east-west. Streets and avenues are often unmarked, however. To orient yourself, count off city blocks inland from Avenida López Mateos, which is also known as Calle 1; successive streets are Calle 2, Calle 3, etc. The commercial business district centers around avenidas Ruíz and Juárez (the in-town extensions of Mex. 1) at the western end of downtown.

Driving tips to keep in mind: As in other Baja cities, traffic lights are small and often hard to spot from a distance. Stop (alto) signs placed at intersections can be obscure, so always proceed slowly and with caution. Some downtown streets are one way. The pay lot at the Plaza Marina shopping center, on Boulevard Costero just north of the sport-fishing piers, is convenient for nearby waterfront wandering.

The city's low skyline is distinguished by the twin spires of Our Lady of Guadalupe (Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe), at the corner of Calle 6 and Avenida Floresta. The cathedral, built in typical Spanish colonial style, is one of Ensenada's most prominent structures and can be used as a downtown orientation landmark. Named for the Virgin of Guadalupe, Mexico's patron saint, it is the focus for celebrations on Dec. 12.

Things To Do

Shopping in Ensenada

The main tourist shopping area is along Avenida López Mateos. Numerous vendors hawk their wares, and gift shops lining the blocks between avenidas Castillo and Ruíz feature such imported items as silver and gold jewelry, onyx chess sets, leather boots and fine liquor. Some of the shops have fixed prices; English is usually spoken and credit cards are welcomed. Los Castillo, on Avenida López Mateos between avenidas Rayon and Aldama, carries Taxco silver jewelry guaranteed to be at least 92.5 percent pure (designated by the numerals “.925”).

This upscale merchandise is augmented by curio shops that stock traditional Mexican craft and clothing items like baskets, ceramics, guitars, jewelry, wrought-iron furniture and leather jackets, purses and sandals. On Boulevard Costero at Avenida Castillo is the Handicrafts Center (Centro Artesanía), a cluster of craft stalls. In particular, take time to wander through Galería Pérez Meillon; this gallery sells Nuevo Casas Grandes pottery, Kumeyaay baskets and other authentic, handmade items fashioned by northern Mexican artisans using age-old techniques.

Hussong's Official Logo Store, at the corner of Avenidas López Mateos and Ruiz, is the place to go for T-shirts, hats, tequila shot glasses and souvenirs from your vacation bearing the Hussong's Cantina logo.

Ensenada's outdoor flea markets offer a chance to find the odd treasure amid piles of utilitarian wares. Los Globos, bordered by Calle 9, Calle Coral, Avenida Morelos and Avenida Juárez (3 blocks east of Avenida Reforma and about a mile from the waterfront), is especially busy on weekends. Although you won't find many souvenirs, this full-blown Mexican marketplace is a change of pace from the tourist district.

Ensenada Outdoor Recreation

Todos Santos Bay and the Pacific yield such cool-water species as albacore, barracuda, bonito, rockfish and yellowtail. Summer is the best time for sport fishing, although such bottom dwellers as sea bass, ling cod, rock cod, halibut and whitefish can be caught all year.

Charter arrangements can be made at the piers off the malecón. Rates for private groups range from about $200 (U.S.) to upward of $550 per day, depending on the size of the craft (an outboard-powered panga or a larger cruiser) and the number of passengers. Party boats for bigger groups cost about $50 per person for an 8-hour day of fishing, plus an extra $10 or so for a required Mexican fishing license. Bait and tackle are usually included, as is pick-up and drop-off from your hotel.

For fun things to do with friends in addition to fishing trips, Gordo's Sport Fishing Fleet offers privately chartered sightseeing boat tours of the bay; phone (646) 178-3515. Sergio's Sportfishing runs daily trips all year to Punta Banda, San Miguel Reef and the Todos Santos Islands, plus longer trips to the Outer Banks (about 35 miles offshore), usually from late May through September; phone (646) 178-2185, or (619) 399-7224 (from the United States).

If you'd like to scuba dive during your trip, Northern Baja diving conditions are similar to those off the coast of Southern California. Within easy reach of Ensenada are thick kelp forests sheltering a wide range of marine life. The tip of the Punta Banda Peninsula is a favored dive site; underwater mountains (sea mounts) are blanketed with colonies of anemones and sponges, and a variety of fish swim through growths of brilliant blue algae. Water temperatures are bracing—around 55 to 64 degrees F. The La Bufadora Dive Shop, near the end of the road to La Bufadora, offers half-day diving and fishing trips. Equipment, wet suit and kayak rentals also are available; phone (646) 154-2092, or (619) 730-2903 (from the United States).

Punta Banda also has an abundance of hot springs; at spots along the beaches here, it is possible to dig into the sand and create your own hole from which soothing hot waters bubble. There are a couple of RV parks and camping areas along BC 23, the paved road that traverses the peninsula. Several unmarked hiking trails also lead off this road.

Ensenada is on the last leg of a gray whale migration journey that begins in the Bering Sea and ends at coastal bays and lagoons along the southern half of the Baja Peninsula. From late December through March the whales pass between the shoreline and the Todos Santos Islands, a little more than a mile offshore. Some of them come close enough to scratch their backs along the bay floor, removing barnacles and parasites. The rugged coastline north and south of town, and especially the end of the Punta Banda Peninsula, provides some excellent lookout points. Gordo's Sport Fishing Fleet, Sergio's Sportfishing and La Bufadora Dive all offer whale-watching trips in tour boats during the peak viewing months.

There are no beaches within the city proper. Most visitors head for Estero Beach, about 12 kilometers (7 miles) south of downtown Ensenada via Mex. 1; the turn-off, about 7.5 kilometers (4.5 miles) south, is well marked. Along the shore of Estero Inlet there are gentle waves and a long stretch of sand.

Southern California surfers gravitate to several spots in the vicinity of Ensenada, including Punta San Miguel, a point next to the village of the same name; Punta Salsipuedes, north of Punta San Miguel; and Estero Beach. But the ultimate surf location in northern Baja is off the Todos Santos Islands (Islas Todos Santos), located at the mouth of Todos Santos Bay. These twin islands catch the full brunt of winter swells from the north Pacific, and waves can reach 30 feet. The San Miguel Surf Shop, on Avenida López Mateos between avenidas Miramar and Gastélum, is the local surfer hangout.

Ensenada Dining and Nightlife

If you're looking for great places to eat, head to Ensenada's traditional open-air Seafood Market, at the north end of Boulevard Costero at Avenida Miramar, is just north of the sport-fishing piers. Known to locals as the Mercado de Mariscos, the covered sheds displaying freshly caught fish and shellfish have a suitably salty ambience. Handcart vendors hawk fresh clams, oysters shucked on the spot and seafood cocktails.

Fish tacos are an Ensenada staple. Stands opposite the Seafood Market offer strips of savory fried fish wrapped in a folded tortilla along with sour cream, guacamole, salsa (both verde and roja, green and red), cabbage, onions and cilantro. Avoid the mayonnaise that is left out on the tables, though. You also can get fish tacos, soups (caldos) and other reasonably priced seafood at the nearby outdoor food court Plaza del Marisco.

Stumbling into a small, out-of-the-way seafood restaurant hidden on a side street is one of the joys of exploring the city. Check the customers; if a place is full of locals, it's likely to be good. Mariscos Bahía Ensenada, at the corner of avenidas López Mateos and Riveroll, is a local restaurant with an extensive menu and a lively atmosphere complete with roving string trios. See the Lodgings & Restaurants section for AAA Diamond designated dining establishments.

Bars and clubs catering to tourists are downtown in the vicinity of Avenida López Mateos and Boulevard Costero. Hussong's Cantina, on Avenida Ruíz just east of Mateos, treats the designated driver in a group to free soft drinks while his or her companions indulge in margaritas and cervezas. Sawdust covers the hardwood floor and mariachi bands provide the music at a watering hole that has atmosphere to spare. Across from Hussong's is Papas & Beer, three floors of fun with free-flowing margaritas, blasting rock and high energy dance music, occasional live bands and numerous theme events.

An alternative to all this raucousness can be found at Bar Andaluz, in the Riviera del Pacífico. This low-key lounge is a relaxed place to have an early evening drink. It's open noon-8 Sun.-Thurs., noon-9 Fri.-Sat.

Mexican dance, ballet and theatrical productions take place at the City Theater (Teatro de la Ciudad), on Calle Diamante between avenidas Pedro Loyola and Reforma. For event information phone (646) 177-0392.

Ensenada Events

Carnaval (Mardi Gras) is usually celebrated in mid-February on the 6 days prior to Ash Wednesday. A downtown street fair takes place each night, with midway rides, live entertainment, food vendors, parades of flower-covered floats and other merriment. The festivities climax with a masquerade ball; prizes are awarded for the best costume.

The Newport to Ensenada Race from Newport Beach, Calif., to Ensenada is held the last weekend in April. Hundreds of yachts depart from Newport Beach at noon, ending up in Ensenada about 11 hours later. Most remain in the city for a day or two, and a huge party with food, music and dancing follows. For information contact the Newport Ocean Sailing Association; phone (949) 644-1023 (from the United States).

Thousands of cyclists make the 50-mile trek from Rosarito to Ensenada along Mex. 1 (the free road) during the Rosarito-Ensenada Bike Ride, which is held twice a year, in May and late September. Following the event, participants and supporters party at the Finish Line Fiesta, held at the Corona Hotel near the cruise ship terminal.

Franciscan and Dominican missionaries first introduced wine culture to Baja California in the 16th century as a way to celebrate holy Mass, and today a thriving wine industry is centered in the Guadalupe Valley. With an ideal climate for grape production and rich volcanic soil, vineyards in northeastern Baja California state produce some 90 percent of Mexican wines.

For 2 weeks in August the Grape Harvest Festival (Fiestas de la Vendimia) celebrates this bounty. Area wineries, many with vineyards in the nearby Guadalupe and El Escondido valleys, also offer tours. Many events require tickets; for more information phone the Association of Wine Growers of Baja California at (646) 178-3038. Restaurants from all over Mexico enter dishes for judging at the Baja Seafood Expo, which normally takes place in late September.

The deceased are honored during Day of the Dead celebrations Nov. 1-2. Beginning in mid-November is the SCORE Baja 1000 (commonly known as the Baja Mil), one of the world's most prestigious off-road races. There are separate categories for cars, trucks, motorcycles and ATVs. The course alternates between an 800-mile loop beginning and ending in Ensenada and a longer run from Ensenada to La Paz that takes place every third year. For information contact SCORE International; phone (775) 852-8907 (from the United States).

Another major festival is the Feast Day of Our Lady of Guadalupe (Día de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe), celebrated Dec. 12. It honors the nation's patron saint, the Guadalupe Virgin. Carnival rides are set up in front of Our Lady of Guadalupe Church, and another attraction is the array of culinary specialties from all over Mexico.